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OCA Organic Cleaning Agent

OCA is an industrial strength water-soluble perfume & dye free non-abrasive detergent that rinses clean and does not leave any residue behind. OCA comes in a pre-measured power form to be dissolved in one U.S. gallon of non-chlorinated water (using hot water will speed up mixing). On sitting, some separation of the mixture will occur, shake well before using, protect from freezing. OCA was formulated primarily to remove fouling and varnish from black powder guns however it can also be used for cleaning: Guns using corrosive military ammo. Black powder cartridge cases. Degreasing parts prior to browning or bluing.

Black Powder: “Seasoning” … good for your cast iron fry pan but bad for your barrel. Seasoning is purely a myth carried on for eons that has absolutely no basis of fact. Original muzzle loader barrels were made from wrought iron that has a much bigger grain structure than modern steels but nowhere near that of cast iron. Seasoning in a cast iron pan is nothing more than a layer of burned on oil properly identified as “varnish”. The large grain structure of the cast iron and rough surface texture allows the varnish to bond to the iron giving the nice smooth surface. The finer grained wrought iron will not take varnish (seasoning) like a cast iron pan and neither will any modern barrel steel because the grain structure is too small and the surface is relatively smooth. Varnish (seasoning) is nothing more than fouling and in extreme cases it can cause serious problems resulting in damage to the gun and or death / injury to the shooter and bystanders.

Varnish is a somewhat generic term used to identify the residue of contaminated degraded oil. The amount of degradation from heat and type of solids contamination contained in the varnish will affect the visual and physical characteristics of the varnish giving it an appearance ranging from smooth semi-clear & shiny to a rough texture flat black. Varnish is usually not noted visually until it builds to a point where it starts showing up as brown stains on a white cleaning patch, by this point, the bore is considerably fouled. In its early stages, varnish is often difficult to detect in a muzzle loader because it will be heavier near the breech and almost non-existent at the muzzle.

This condition occurs for three primary reasons: 1- the heat, pressure and combustion products are concentrated heavier in the breech area; 2- low quality lubes fail completely long before the projectile clears the muzzle; 3- impurities like dyes, fillers, scents and petroleum products contained in some lubes burn up in the first 14” forward of the breech leaving the heaviest deposits in this area. 

*** NOTE: Be absolutely sure the gun is unloaded and not primed or capped before attempting any cleaning or inspection process.

Varnish can sometimes be detected by clamping the barrel in a suitable solid fixture, then using both hands to slowly push a tight dry cotton patch down the bore on a jag without stopping until you go the full length of the bore. As you get closer to the breech, you will feel more resistance on the rod and in some cases you will hit a spot where the patch will jam tight. In other cases, the motion of the patch will feel a little rough giving a chattering effect on the rod. A rough bore will also give a chattering effect even if there is no varnish in it. To make the determination if you have a rough bore or a varnished bore, you need to carefully inspect the patch. Any tears or cuts on the woven threads that give the patch a “fuzzy” look usually indicate a rough bore. Threads on the patch that are displaced (pulled out of alignment) but not torn or cut usually indicate the presence of varnish and are often accompanied by slight discolorations of the patch.

*** NOTE: If you get a dry patch jammed in the bore, do not force it until you break something. Pour some water, cleaning agent or oil down the bore and allow it to soak through the patch for a few minutes. If the patch cannot be pulled out once it is wet, try going in with it a little more then reversing direction to pull it out. Repeat as necessary, it will work free without applying a great deal of force or breaking anything.
 
A unidirectional non-L.E.D. light source, such as fiber optic style, is extremely helpful in visual examination of a muzzle loader bore. L.E.D. light will not give the same reflective properties that an incandescent light source will provide being necessary for this application. Since most people don’t happen to have a unidirectional light right handy, something on the order of a Mini-Maglite® will often suffice but are not the optimum choice. It helps to have low ambient light conditions when looking at the bore to help eliminate external reflections. Shine the light down the sides of the bore starting at the muzzle and moving toward the breech looking for changes in color and the amount of reflection. Sometimes the demarcation zone of where the heavy varnish starts is easily seen and other times it extends completely to the muzzle making it very difficult to detect visually. The face of the breech plug will give you some indication as to the condition of the bore as well. If it has any tint to it other than bare clean steel color, you have varnish and or corrosion. If you see any dark spots, obvious pits or corrosion, I strongly suggest you take the barrel to a competent black powder gunsmith to be de-breeched and fully inspected for safety reasons. If your bore is shiny but has a tint to it like a light gray or tan, or if looks clean but is not shiny, you likely have either a varnish layer or a spalled bore. (A spalled bore has surface damage resembling the look of a shot blast finish, it’s no longer smooth.) One of the biggest difficulties is that varnish has such a wide range of appearances depending on what caused it that there is no one foolproof way of identifying it. The safest bet is to simply assume that you have varnish and go through the cleaning rituals and know for sure you have a varnish free bore.

Varnish has two basic forms: 1- organic that comes from plant & animal oils, 2- non-organic that comes from petroleum and synthetic compounds. Organic varnish removal requires the use of organic solvents while non-organic varnish removal may require the use of chemical solvents. Both types of varnish will also require mechanical cleaning in addition to the solvent. Since non-organic solvents have little effect on organic varnishes, it is best to start the cleaning process with OCA as it will likely remove all varnishes. It is best to remove the barrel from the gun as not to expose the stock to the solvents as damage can occur. The nipple or touch hole needs to be plugged with a suitable material to prevent any leakage of the solvents from the bore. To aid in keeping the solvents off the outside of the barrel, I suggest using a funnel when pouring the solvents into the bore, clean any spillage off the exterior of the barrel immediately by rinsing with clear water and drying. OCA & water can damage some stock and metal finishes, take all appropriate measures to prevent OCA or other solvents from contacting any surface that is should not be exposed to solvents.

OCA will remove most organic and non-organic varnishes within a few hours, extreme cases will require more time and additional mechanical cleaning as well as the use of a non-organic chemical solvent if necessary. Initial cleaning should be done first by running a tight fitting bronze brush up and down the bore in full strokes at least 20 times. (nylon brushes are not well suited for this application as the lack the necessary abrasive properties to help break up the varnish) Dump any loosened material out by pointing the muzzle down and tapping the side of the barrel.

*** Warning – Working with hot water, cleaners and sharp brushes can be dangerous. Always take appropriate cautions and wear all protective equipment necessary. Keep pets and children clear at all times.

Return muzzle to vertical and fill bore with hot tap water using due care and appropriate personal protective equipment to prevent burns and or scalding. Allow hot water to remain in the bore for about 15 minutes to pre-heat the barrel. OCA will work best when warmed to about 110°F but please use extreme care and caution while handling heated liquid as it can cause severe burns. With barrel vertical, fill bore completely with OCA and let stand 30 minutes. Pour out about half the OCA and carefully scrub bore with brush to help remove loosened varnish. Dump out remainder of OCA and refill bore with clean OCA and let stand 1 hour (rinse off and dry exterior of barrel as necessary). Scrub bore, drain, rinse with plenty of clear water and dry then repeat inspection process to see if bore is completely clean. Repeat all steps as necessary.

Once the initial cleaning is completed, use only BPL lube to prevent further varnish formations and to simplify the cleaning process. For normal cleaning, wipe bore with a clean patch to remove any excess BPL. OCA may be warmed or used at room temperature, swab bore using patches saturated with OCA until they come out clean, rinse with plenty of clear water, dry and reapply a coating of BPL to prevent corrosion.

Corrosive Ammunition:

Follow basic cleaning directions for black powder above. Disassemble action and clean all parts with OCA, rinse and dry as directed. Once clean, apply coating of BPL to all parts and surfaces to provide lubrication and corrosion protection.




Duron Polish:

Duron industrial polish is an extremely fine polish that will not leave scratches or marks behind like lesser quality harsh abrasive polishes.  Duron works best when hand applied using a cloth composed of at least 60% cotton fiber or with a cotton or wool machine buff.  Apply polish to cloth or buff, work on surface with light pressure using a circular motion and overlapping areas to obtain an even finish.  Machine buffs should be run at low speeds and polish applied sparingly, a small amount of Duron will do a lot of work.  Duron is an acid free polish so when you stop working it, it stops working and will not cause corrosion or destruction of surfaces from chemical attack.  Can be used on most any hard finish including most plastics, varnishes and paints.  Duron can be used safely to remove haze from most all plastics and glass such as automotive light covers and windows.  Apply Duron in the same manner as with metal, rub lightly to restore finish to it's original condition.  Always test product in a hidden area to ensure compatibility and desired results before continuing.  On textured surfaces, allow trapped or difficult to remove polish to dry on the surface (out of direct sunlight) and remove by lightly running a soft non-scratching brush over the surface.  Using a soft nylon bristle brush with wet Duron polish will also clean heavily textured surfaces with very little effort.  Do not eat Duron or otherwise take internally.  Keep children and pets away.  Always store Duron and any other chemical or cleaner in a secure area where children or pets cannot get access to it.